Houses of Parliament on a misty morning |
It really is amazing how certain thoughts intrude as you’re
pottering along. There is something about a grey day in London which always
puts me in a reflective mood. There are ghost here, they peer out at us from
dank, cobbled passages and soar over us in the cold and crisp air. Memories of
lost friends, lost loves and lost beauty linger amidst the lofty glass towers,
the traffic and the dust of this city, waiting to be seen and acknowledged
again, waiting in vain it seems for the city to slow down enough for us to see
one another.
That day I walked from Old Street to Green Park, then back
along past Saint Paul’s and through to Moorgate before turning my feet home. I
love walking in London, it’s such a refreshing change from the Tubes and Buses
and it gives me time to think. My somewhat contemplative disposition was enhance
by the weather and a certain nostalgia for times past, and it got me to
pondering why it is that in a city which is so full of times past, it seems that it's the next
big thing we’re always looking toward – after all, knowing where we’ve been
must surely inform where we’re going to?
"History is the witness that testifies to the passing of time; it illumines reality, vitalizes memory, provides guidance in daily life and brings us tidings of antiquity." Cicero, Pro Publio Sestio |
Now, whilst this is perhaps no bad thing for the majority,
being a student of history firstly, and art secondly, it really got me down –
to the extent that I was starting to get somewhat distressed at our short-term,
progressive view point. Geographically stumped as to my exact location, I was
wandering (slightly) lost in a forest of glass and concrete towers, when
suddenly I came across the most wonderful building which stopped me in my
tracks. It’s funny how a small thing can have such a dramatic effect on ones
subconscious, but this one really did – the St. Albans Church Tower – is what I
would describe as a beacon in the dark, and it reminded me that there are some
places in this city where the past and present merge with an image of the
future to create something unique, something beautiful and something ineffably
hopeful…
St. Albans Church, Wood Street - a welcome diamond in the rough |
I’m putting it down to the Dickensian murk shrouding my
brain – others may call it one of my blonde moments – but when I thought about
it that day, and subsequently, there are many example of ghosts being made
flash and blood amongst us. My favourite incarnation has to be the Sir John Soane’s
Museum, Lincoln Inn Fields - a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of
High Holborn. Soane (1753 – 1837)
designed the house to live in, but also as a setting for his antiquities and
his works of art. After the death of his wife (1815), he lived there alone,
constantly adding to and rearranging his collections. It is the perfect place to spend an afternoon, a window
onto the past enhanced by the fact that the museum is a house, a home, making
it feel as if you have literally stepped back two hundred years, the hum of the
modern world hushed to a mere memory.
Sir John Soane's Museum - the proverbial Aladdin's Cave, and a haven for getting away from it all |
Artistically though are there similar moments where past and present collide? Do we still yearn to see
those men and women who inspired modern masters, or are they too dispatched to
the realm of memory, languishing in museums populated by other ghosts? Shakespeare
(brainy bard that he was) once wrote that “what
is past is prologue”, and so it seems to me that to ignore the subtlety of
past artists in favour of all the showmanship of today would be a great
tragedy. Luckily the artistic community still recognizes the contribution of
those who have held brushes before them; they recognize the value of images
like Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, Jan
Vermeer’s Girl with the Pearl Earring
and Claude Monet’s famous Water Lilies
series – if only grudgingly at times. Having been to the Da Vinci exhibition at the National Gallery, I have witnessed first hand the passion we still hold these artists in, and whilst they may not be seen in the most cutting edge of galleries, they are still a part of modern culture, if only as a footnote to the contemporary.
Jan Vermeer, Girl with the Pearl Earring, 1665. Oil on Canvas. |
Whilst I guess in the end we’re all ghosts in this great
metropolis – passing through, leaving memories for those who remember us and
just another empty space for those who don’t – there seem to be some places
where we can immerse ourselves in these spirits of bygone eras. Whether it’s
walking through the streets or sitting quietly in a museum, I would council us
to keep the company of these memoirs every now and again – not at the expense
of the present you understand, but as a silent companion to it every once in a
while.
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